Budapest and the Train to Prague

It was nice to wake up in a bed. We packed and went down for breakfast. We would have to check out and store our luggage until it was time to leave for the train station. I made arrangements for a taxi to take us from the hotel to the station for a fixed price (half of what I paid to get there). 

It was Sunday and Teresa wanted to check out a store we had seen that had closed the day before. Our plans were to use the bus passes we bought the day before to get us around to the sites. They were “hop-on, hop-off tour” buses.  They were good for 24 hours and the route had thirteen stops and a constant recording going of landmarks and history, in 18 languages. We had ridden it the majority of the route the day before, listening to the English version of the audio tour and listening to the classical music composed by famous Hungarians. Not sure if it was the heat, sitting down, the tranquil music, or what, but I had trouble staying awake during the first tour. Even Teresa was fighting to stay awake. Today, however, was different. We were using it like a bus, with given stops.  Stop one, old town square, stop two the castle, stop three the citadel, and finally a ride to Heroes square.

Yes, we were going to miss the Parliament tour. But, we had a packed day, and we still had to make sure we had time to get our bags and get to the train station. Of course, we were not looking forward to the over night train trip to Prague given the first train ride experience, but still…

So, we get to the square and the shop Teresa wants to visit is open. The craftsmanship and artistry of the hand craft crystal was superb (and extremely expensive). We opted to buy just  the paprika. As we made our way to the bus stop, we walked through a seemingly abandoned building (no shops inside). We’re not quite sure what is was, but the halls had glass domes (left) and other glass works throughout. Amazing!

We head out and got to the next bus stop. On to the castle!

When we got off the bus, we saw that street performers were at the castle. We were greeting by  the organ grinder. Little surprises, like a museum devoted to Marzipan, were around every corner. Parts of walls were built into gardens, other parts were hidden away.

The Castle

The foundations of the castle, which would later be besieged no less than 31 times, were laid in the 13th century after Mongol tribes had invaded Hungary. King Béla built a keep surrounded by thick walls in 1243 on a site which was previously occupied by a small farming community. Around the keep, a small town called Buda started to grow. During the Reign of King Lajos the Great, the keep was fortified and a palace was built. Later, during the reign of Sigismund of Luxembourg (1387-1437), the castle was again expanded, resulting in one of the greatest palaces in Europe.

The 15th century palace

At the end of the 15th century, during the reign of King Matthias Corvinus the castle was restored and new wings were added to the palace. Very little remains of this beautiful palace of the 15th century, as the buildings were almost completely demolished when Budapest was recaptured after the Turkish ruled the city between 1541 and 1686.

The 18th century palace

A new palace was built between 1714 and 1723 by King Charles III of Habsburg. It was designed in a Baroque style by Fortunato de Prati and supervised by Johann Hölbling. The palace was extended by King Charles’s daughter, the empress Maria Theresa, but the great fire of 1810 and the attack of the castle during the Hungarian rising destroyed much of the new palace. (Buda Castle)

After exploring the castle and grounds as much as we could, we headed for the bus stop. The buses were supposed to run every half hour and we were not sure of the stop times; they were not posted. But, we figured if we had to wait, we could get a snack at the pastry shop there. We timed it well. I was just paying the bill when the bus pulled up. It would be just a short ride to the Citadel.

The Citadel was built on Gellért hill, the tallest point in the city of Budapest. It was built by the Habsburgs in 1851 to demonstrate their control over the Hungarians. It was a strategical point from where they had an overview of both Buda and Pest (the two cities, separated by the river).   

Not realizing where we were going, we ended up going to the wartime museum, which was located in a bunker.  There were photos all over showing the devastation of war and explaining how more than 80% of Budapest was destroyed in the various wars.  It saddened both Teresa and I to think about the destruction and loss of lives.  

Also on the hill is the Liberation Monument. 

The statue was erected in 1947 after the second world war. The main figure is a woman, holding an olive branch, the symbol of peace in her hands. On both sides symbolic figures can be seen: the young man’s victory over the dragon represents the defeat of fascism.  A choir was singing songs in front of the monument, sending sweet sounds into the heavens.  Teresa mentioned that she was trying to find a good place to lay her flower that I had given to her yesterday.  She knew it wouldn’t last the train ride and said she realized now where it needed to go.

Gellért hill also offers some of the most picturesque and stunning views of the city. Most people didn’t want to stay here long, so the tour buses stop here, waiting 10-15 minutes for all the passengers to get off to get their pictures the headed back down. Spotted along side the roads were street vendors selling their wares.  We took our photos and then when we thought it was time to leave, we didn’t have to wait long for our bus.

Our next stop was going to be Heroes Square. 

The monument ( in Heroes Square) was built for the 1896 Millennium celebrations, that’s why it is called Millennium Monument.

Hungary celebrated the 1000th anniversary that its ancestors found a place to settle down in the Carpathian Basin. Every part of the monument plays tribute to determining parts of Hungary’s history.

The memorial won the first prize at the 1900 World Exhibition in Paris. The monument was completely finished in 1929 and the square received its name than too.

The 36 m high Corinthian column dominates the square with Archangel Gabriel on its top holding St Stephen’s Crown. According to the story Gabriel appeared to St Stephen in his dream and offered him the crown of Hungary.

Pope Sylvester II indeed sent a crown to him acknowledging Hungary and King Stephen as a defender of Christendom. Today you can view the Holy Crown in Budapest Parliament.

The equestrian statues of the seven Magyar (Hungarian) tribes’ chieftains encircle the column. The seven tribes lead by Árpád arrived first in the Carpathian Basin around 896 AD to find out whether the area was suitable for settling down.

Heroes’ Square

A semicircled colonnade encompasses the column with statues of Hungarian kings and heroes. From left to right you can see:

    * King St Stephen- Hungary’s first king, founder of the Hungarian state

    * King St László- a noble and strict king, several miracles are attributed to him

    * King Kálmán Könyves King Coloman de Beaiclerc-annexed Croatia and Dalmatia to Hungary

    * King András II- participated in the Crusades

    * King Béla IV- rebuilt the country after the Mongol invade in the 13th century

    * King Charles Robert – created a strong and wealthy Hungary in the first half of the 14th century

    * King I Nagy Lajos (Luis the Great)-son of Charles Robert, during his reign Hungary reached the greatest expansion of its territory

    * King Matthias-a Renaissance King who made Buda Europe’s cultural centre in the 15th century

    * István Bocskai- as a result of his fight against the Habsburg reign Transylvania became independent in 1606

    * Gábor Bethlen – prince of Transylvania in the 17th century, leader of an anti-Habsburg uprising

    * Imre Thököly – leader of Hungarian Protestants against the Habsburg rule

    * Ferenc Rákóczi-leader of the War of Independence against the Habsburgs in the 18th century

    * Lajos Kossuth-great patriot and statesman, leader of the 1848/49 War of Indepedence

Symbolic figures reside on top of the corner pillars:

    * War

    * Peace

    * Work and Welfare

    * Knowledge and Glory

The Hungarian War Memorial stands in front of the column and commemorates heroes how had died for the independence of Hungary. It is a popular spot for wreath-laying ceremonies on national holidays. (City Park)

Again, the bus was going to take us there. The thing is, we wanted to bypass some of the stops, so we decided to hop off at stop #1 and cut across a square and a couple of city blocks to stop #5. If we timed it right, we’d be on another bus in the circuit. Well, timing was not always our thing during this trip.  When the #5 bus came we realized that it was the same one we had been on before. 

The Square was at the end of the avenue, stop # 7. While some of the stops were clustered together, this one was a ways out. As the bus got closer, there seemed to be more and more people along the side walks, some waving Hungarian flags. Looking ahead, there were police cars, lights on, blocking the road. As we approached, a police officer directed the bus to detour. The avenue was blocked off for some sort of gathering. I saw more Hungarian flags being waved. I stood up and asked if we could get off the next time the bus stopped (which it was stop already). The tour guide nodded and the doors open. We wanted to see the square, but were not sure what was going on. As we headed through the crowd we noticed that it was getting thicker. This was definitely an assembly for something. We heard someone speaking over a loudspeaker or bull horn or something in very stern tones, rallying the group. Of course, not speaking Hungarian, we had no idea what was being said, but they were not burning American flags and the crowd was not all that agitated, so I did not feel threatened.  Not so for Teresa. She was looking more and more uneasy and when we couldn’t go any further without shoving people aside to try to get through, she suggested we turn around. I agreed. I mean, I don’t mind taking a stand for something when I know what the stand is. 

We still were not sure what exactly was going on, so on the way out, I walked over to three police officers. I asked, in my best Hungarian, if they spoke English (according to the guidebook phrases, it goes something like “Bes Ale En Gol oold”). They looked at me like I had three heads and motioned me to move on. I did and about half a block later, there was a lone policeman. Unhindered and still curious, I asked him (in English). He did not look happy that I was asking, let alone that he would have to answer me, but he did, saying “political protest”.  We found out when we got home what type of political protest was going on…

(Source politics.hu) A crowd estimated at 25,000-60,000 converged on Heroes Square Sunday afternoon to demand early elections. The vast square was filled to overflowing, with people standing on the steps of the Fine Arts and Műcsarnok galleries, and a crowd extending along Dózsa György út and down Andrássy út as far as Bajza utca.

A great many brought Hungarian flags and Árpád-stripe and Jobbik flags representing the radical right wing. One of the main organisers, architect Imre Makovecz, told those present that if the present demonstration is fruitless, they will organise further protests in demand of early elections. The demonstration was organised by the little-known Civil Union Forum.

Speakers said the election of Gordon Bajnai as the next prime minister must be prevented, and that he and outgoing Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsány must be held accountable for taking the country to bankruptcy.

Demonstrators broke a police line on Andrássy út before proceeding to Kossuth tér. When the first part of the crowd arrived outside Parliament, they began to spit on and harass policemen lined up there. Some of the 1,500-2,000 demonstrators broke through a police line at the Agriculture Ministry.

Radical activist György Budaházy demanded to know why the Magyar Gárda present were not attacking the police, prompting them to leave the square. Hundreds of riot police surrounded the square but did not erect any steel barriers. Traffic returned to normal by 9 p.m

We had a train to catch and seeing the square would have to wait for another time. We walked back to the hotel, looking for a place to eat. Not finding anything by the time we got near the hotel, we decied to try the shopping mall. Like the US, we were sure there was food court in here and there was. Still, nothing looked appetizing. There was also a super market in this mall, so we decided to pick up some drinks and snacks for the train ride. Still, we wanted dinner before our train trip, so we ended up eating in the hotel restaurant. We were glad that we did.  The food was good, as was the Hungarian wine. After dinner, we picked up our luggage from the bell hop and got into the taxi, which drove us to the train station. 

The train station was different than Brasov’s, in that when you walked into it you were actually staring at the trains on the track.  There were stairs that went down below to ticket windows, with an atrium that opened up to the train station.  Across the atrium was an electronic board with train numbers, destinations, and arrrival/departure times scrolling on it.  This time, I already had a reservation AND tickets. We had a train number, car number, and seat number already assigned. You would think it would be a walk in the park. Uh, no. The arrival/departure board was not listing our train. We had an hour before it left, but it was not showing. I told Teresa to wait to watch all our luggage and I’d go find information. 

I went to the ticketing area and walked up to an open window. The woman said something and I asked her if she spoke English. She did and asked if I had a number. “Number?”

“Yes, got to the entrance and push the button, it will assign you a number. Your number will be assign a window and you will be called.”

Ok, I can do that. I turn and walk to the entrance. There is a machine on the wall and a button. I reach for it and am just about to push it when something catches my eye, a word on the panel “rendőrség”. I’ve seen that before. I look further, in another section, the word is “policija” and in another I see “poliţie”. Finally, in the last section, in English is the “police”. It is a police call button. Yes, I am glad I did not press it. 

I step outside the entrance and look around. Off to the side is another machine with a computer screen. I walk up and see “Information” on it. Okay, I touch the screen and get a menu. Choosing English, I then select “Information”, it spits out a small ticket. Expecting a number, it reads “The information desk is closed. Normal hours are ….”. with ticket in hand, I walk back into the ticket office and stand in front of the same window. The lady’s computer had not told her that a new number was assigned to her, so she continues to ignore me and work on her Sudoku. I say “excuse me” and she looks up, annoyed. 

She starts to tell me I need a number and I hold up a finger (not the one you are thinking). I push the ticket thru the opening and say “I cannot get a number, the info desk is closed. All I need is an answer to a simple question. I have this reservation and yet I do not see the train on the board. Can you tell me which platform I need to be on?”

She harumphs, looks at my reservation, and says “The train has not arrived and I do not know the track it will come in on. The board will update when it does, usually 20 minutes before it is set to leave.” She pushes my reservation back out, forces a smile, and says nothing more. I bow slightly and thank her, turn and walk away. 

Back at the station, I explain all this to Teresa. We watched the board for the destination, but never did see it. We saw that two trains were leaving at the same time as ours, though, one heading east and the other west and north. We figured that was ours. Of course, we were not looking forward to another set of border crossings (Hungary -=> Slovakia, Slovakia -=> Czech Republic), the uncomfortable seats or benches and the wash closets that opened to the tracks below. But, life is an adventure that must be experienced, and it did not kill us the first time. 

As we walked down the train, I was looking in the cars. Some looked similar to what we had been on just two nights ago, others looks more modern.  We stop a conductor, show him our reservation and he tells us it should be the first car. We  continue to the front and standing outside the first car is an older couple. They are talking to another conductor, raised voices, almost to the point of arguing, or that’s what it sounds like. The language is Slavik based and they are speaking it very fast. It almost sounded Polish (which would have made sense as the train only stopped in Prague, then Berlin before terminating in Warsaw, Poland. 

Finally, the conductor escorted the older couple onto the car. It seemed like forever before he returned, but then he looked at our reservation and invited us on board too. He showed us to our room and explained how things worked and where things were.

To our surprise, the room was just that, a small room with a closet for our bags, a sink to freshen up in, and two bunks, already made.  They were much more comfortable than the benches. The door was solid (not glass) and the window had a curtain. The W/C (wash closet)  was

down the hall. It did NOT empty to the tracks and even had running water in it.  There was even a shower in the W/C (though I was not keen on using it). The conductor was actually the “steward” and he came by one last time before the train was pulling out. He wanted our reservation, saying he needed it to make sure we were up for our stop. I asked him about stopping for the border crossings, explaining about the last trip. He smiled and told us that this train did not stop, it was an “express” train. 

I pulled out the ladder from the closet and set it up and Teresa took the top bunk. I laid down on the bottom one with the intention of watching some of the scenery go by. The train got up to speed and the “clickity clak” we had gotten used to on the other trip was gone. Although our rooms were non-smoking, the hall outside was not.  At times, we would smell the cigarette smoke coming through the ventilation, however it appeared everyone went to sleep after a little while.  The track was smooth as glass and we felt very little. Teresa was working on her journal and I fell asleep. Teresa confessed to me later she fell asleep shortly after me.

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