We awoke early and went down to breakfast. We had a full day ahead of us in Edinburgh. While we had spent some time wandering yesterday, it had been too late to get much time in the major things like the Edinburgh castle. We were also told that the underground catacombs were one of the most haunted places and we knew we wanted to take a ghost tour.
Edinburg has double decker buses like London, some of which are tour busses with audio tours (live and recorded). We asked our hostess which bus would get us to the “Royal Mile” the quickest and she gave us the numbers, telling us the first had a stop just outside. We packed up our travel gear and left.
All of us boarded the first bus and it went a mere two blocks before stopping for a transfer to the other line. We quickly got off and caught the next bus and were on our way. Traffic was heavy on this road and we were chatting when we heard a bag-pipe. No, not one… but many. We tried to look where they were coming from and it appeared to be coming from ahead. Teresa and I looked at each other, then at Daryl. Daryl looked back. We were still three, maybe four stops from the “Royal Mile”. Daryl smiled and said, “Go, go! I’ll catch up with you guys later.” He did not need to tell us twice, we got up and the driver let us out.
We rushed down the streets, cameras and bag in hand. The music was getting louder and appeared to be come from (St Giles) Cathedral. It was not Sunday, nor did it sound like a wedding march. Then again, what did I know about Scottish wedding marches?
We get to the Royal Mile and there is a parade. The rank and file of young men, scouts based on their uniforms, were marching down the streets. They were followed by pipers, bag pipers, drummers. We worked our way up as best as we could to get a view of the entrance. When I asked someone in the crown what was going on, apparently it was the opening ceremonies of the Scottish Parliament. We were told that it was even possible that Prince Charles himself would be arriving.
Teresa waiting for the next photo op
After the parade ended, cars started arriving and uniformed people started opening the doors and escorting the guests. It was a real fashion show as people got out with their hats and fancier duds on. We watched and waiting for several minutes. Daryl said he would catch up, so we stood where we could get a good view of the front of the church and the street.
The morning went on and more people kept showing up before the entourage at the front of the cathedral filed in. We waited a bit more, but did not find Daryl. We decided to head up to Edinburgh Castle.
As we approach the castle, there is a Scotch distillery/museum to our left and a gift shop to our right. We chose to go right. Inside, we found many things, including a photo studio where one can put on a kilt and other garb. Well, we had to do that and I would recommend it to anyone.
Afterwards, Teresa went looking at one of the shop and I at another. This woman approached me with a tray containing sample shots (half/quarter shots). She had a single malt Scotch and a scotch blend. I tried the Scotch and it was okay, maybe a little harsh. I was “meh”. After seeing my reaction, she asked if I wanted to try the other. She said it was a liquor made with another single malt Scotch blended with creme, cocoa, and butterscotch. Okay, might as well. I tried it and WOW! It was fantastic. You could tell the Scotch was in it, but it did not have that alcohol burn/taste. It was chocolaty and creamy and smooth. I wanted to try some more and she offered me another. I waved over at Teresa to come over. She had to try this. I asked the woman and she called it “Mrs Walker’s Drumgray Highland Cream“. (Note: Anyone that goes to Scotland, please let me know. I am running low.)
Seems our luck was good, or timing as we got there just in time to see the changing of the guards. This happened before the main gate. Granted it is not Buckingham Palace, but we had seen a change in Greece a few years ago and it seems like many countries have similar ceremonies. Here, they marched in step, presented arms, and other pomp. It was really a sight to see.
Afterwards, we went to the main gate. This was a castle right out of the movies, out of books, and out of the imagination. It was built high on a hill, was very defensible, had high walls and was quite large. As we entered, there were maps/diagrams of the different areas, from quartermaster and stables, to common houses; from living quarters to the inner palace. There were courtyards and smith shops. And most every one had some sort of demonstration being done. It was fascinating to see people acting as it were still medieval times and teaching those young and old how things were.
The Royal Fireplace
Exploring the past
Upon the battlements, bring out the big guns
After touring the castle, we went back out to the Royal Mile. The crown around the Cathedral had disbursed. Still a lot of people around, just not the same crowds. As we came around the corner, we ran into Daryl, sitting on a bench. It had been sizzling and was a bit cold. We asked him if he had been sitting around the whole time? He assured us he had not and even went into details of some of the sites. He was just “taking a break”. He did ask us if we had seen a clothing store as he needed to buy a smaller pair of pants and belt. Amazing what walking can do for your waist line.
We found a nice restaurant for dinner. As much as we like to immerse ourselves in the local culture, neither Daryl nor I could bring ourselves to order the haggis. we did try several other dishes and the local spirits. Speaking of, it was time to get to the Ghost Tour.
Ghost Tour, Story Teller
We got to the meeting place and gathered together with several other tourists. The our led us to an old church cemetery and the story teller was good and holding the audiences attention while telling stories with some history thrown in. She had stories of being buried aline, of grave robbers and of those wrongfully put to death. Of course the cemetery was only the beginning, we were heading to the catacombs/vaults.
The Edinburgh Vaults or South Bridge Vaults are a series of chambers formed in the nineteen arches of the South Bridge in Edinburgh, Scotland, which was completed in 1788. For around 30 years, the vaults were used to house taverns, workshops for cobblers and other tradesmen, as well as storage space for said merchants. In later years, the vaults were a hotspot for the homeless and for criminal activity such as illegal gambling taverns, illegal whisky distillery and, according to rumour, bodysnatchers stored corpses there overnight. There is however no proof that the serial killers Burke and Hare ever used the vaults.
As the conditions in the vaults deteriorated, mainly because of damp and poor air quality, the businesses left in the 1820s and the very poorest of Edinburgh’s citizens moved in, though by around 1860, even they are believed to have left too. That people had lived there was only discovered in 1985 during an excavation, when middens were found containing toys, medicine bottles, plates, and other signs of human habitation.
Once down in the catacombs, I hung back bit. I was not trying to get lost or anything. I wanted to get a few “dark” pictures, hoping the perhaps something “un-explained” would appear for my camera. So, I stayed on the periphery. We had moved from one chamber into another and the story teller was finishing up her story about a young boy. I walked closer to the circle just as the hostess was reaching telling about a “telling” hand and just in time to place my hand on Teresa’s shoulder. As I did, the near silence was shattered by a shriek from the woman I was standing behind, my hand on her shoulder. I stepped back quickly and glanced around. Teresa was across the room. In my defense, she had a similar colored jacket and was about the same height. Plus, it was dark. I apologized (repeatedly, to both of them).
After the tour was over, we headed back to our lodgings. It was late and we were leaving tomorrow for Lumley Castle with a stop or two for Rosylnn Chapel and some more geocaching.
