So this morning, we got up to catch the train up the mountain to Koyasan, a mountain town in the prefecture of Wakayama. For those note familiar with prefectures, think of them as states within the county of Japan. We had to take a couple of trains, and ended up with a cable train going up the mountain to Kuyasan. This was a Buddhist retreat or temple called Hoon-in. Here you’re allowed to stay overnight, they provide any room with futon beds, a public onsen, also called a bath. And they fed you. We had dinner the night. We stayed there, and breakfast in the morning. This is gonna put me to a test, as a meals were 100% vegetarian.
So after the train ride through small towns in the valleys, we get to the station for the cable car. Now my thoughts on the cable car is that it’s a suspended car underneath the cable that goes up the mountain. That’s not the case here. This looked more like what we’ve ridden in a few places before, a cog wheel train. Looking closer, however, it truly was a cable car with the cable going up the mountain. As we waited at the station, we looked around and found out that it was a Swiss made train. The ride up was spectacular, breathtaking views, waterfalls even a few small towns. The Japanese ingenuity is amazing, and it seems they see the shortest distance between two points as a straight line as law. There were a few tunnels along our way.
Koyasan a relatively small town on top of the mountain. Here there are many Shukubos. The name Shukubo consists of “Shuku”, which means accommodation, and “Bo”, which means temples. We took a small bus from the station to a bus stop almost in front of the Hoon Inn. We took our luggage and checked in.
I wanna give you a tip here about luggage. One of the things that our hotel in Osaka mentioned was that they could ship our large bags to our next destination. But we definitely have one big bag along with our carry-ons and my medical bag. So we found out that we could ship a large bag for around ¥2000 and they would hold it overnight for us since we weren’t checking in until the next day in Kyoto, we jumped at the chance. This meant we weren’t having to look around the large, heavy, bulky suitcase and annoy the locals who are just trying to get to work on the train. So if you break that down at the time of our trip, we calculated it to be around $12 US to ship and store a large suitcase. We continue to use services like this throughout our trip. It made our travels much lighter and allowed us more freedom. At this time went on the cost did go up slightly as we were storing souvenirs and the cost is based off of size more than weight. But the cost never went over ¥2400 so we felt it was a great bargain.
We found we had time after we checked in before dinner, so we set off to explore. And while I said this was a small town, it had a lovely little secret that neither Teresa nor I had known about before we got there and that was that Kuyasan is a world heritage site with a collection of temples and shrines. Because of the elevation, we also found snow. Not that we’re complaining we were kind of expecting that elsewhere, so we did pack for cold weather.
We wandered around the temples, peeking inside the open windows. Inside each temple was a centralized altar. Around the altar was the fragile bamboo mats that made up the floor where pilgrims monks worshipers would come in in their soft sandals or slippers, and kneel or sit to pray. The doors are closed and we didn’t even try to see if they were locked. We seem to be lost and enjoying the peacefulness that seemed to surround us.
A land of rich cultural heritage and spiritual depth, where Buddhism has played a significant role in shaping its history and society. Buddhism first made its way to Japan around the 6th century, coming from China and Korea. It was introduced during a time when Japan was eager to learn from its neighbors, adopting new ideas and practices. Early on, Buddhism was embraced by the ruling elite, who saw it as a means to unify the country and enhance their own power. If only they saw the true nature of faith and religion.
Over the centuries, Buddhism evolved uniquely in Japan, giving rise to various sects and schools of thought. One of the most prominent is Zen Buddhism, known for its emphasis on meditation and direct experience. The Zen temples, with their serene gardens and minimalist architecture, offer a glimpse into the spiritual discipline that has captivated many around the world. There’s also Pure Land Buddhism, which focuses on devotion to Amida Buddha, promising rebirth in the Pure Land—a paradise where enlightenment is assured.
We will find as we wandered through Japan that Buddhist practices are woven into the fabric of everyday life. From the solemn rituals at ancient temples to the lively festivals celebrating Buddhist deities, there’s a palpable sense of reverence and tradition. The temples themselves are architectural marvels, each with its own story and significance. If you ever find yourself in Japan, I highly recommend visiting places like Kyoto, Nara, or here in Kuyasan where you can experience the tranquility and beauty of Japanese Buddhism firsthand. It’s a journey not just across landscapes but through time, offering insights into the spiritual heart of this fascinating country.
And even though there were just a few other people around, all the noise of the traffic, the train, the planes, they all seem to be magically muffled into non existence. We walked around for a couple of hours before it was time to head back to Hoon-in to clean up before dinner.
We made our way to the dining hall. Our sections were labeled minor room name. I wasn’t sure how well I would be able to sit on the floor to eat dinner, and once I try to get down, then I was sure this was not gonna happen. One of the monks saw my struggles and offered me a solution, a chair. Of course they didn’t have any tables in the dining hall, but the trees did stack nicely elevate the food up. Again the food was vegetarian, and I’m a bit of a picky eater. And while Teresa ate pretty much everything on the tray, there were some things that I tasted that just did not agree with my pallet. I tried, I really did try many of the dishes. The portions were small and in the end, I felt satisfied.
After dinner, we were retired to our room. We rearranged a few things, aunt Teresa went off to take a bath.I looked down at the futons. Well, life is an adventure.