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Just When We Thought the Trip Couldn’t Get Any Bigger…
Just when we thought the trip couldn’t get any bigger, we arrived at Victoria Falls.
One of the reasons we added Zimbabwe to our itinerary was simple. Victoria Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world. We were already on the same continent and only a short flight away. There was no way we were coming all this distance and not seeing it.
Of course, getting there required another travel day.
And another early morning. When I say early, I mean before sensible people should be awake.
We left Hippo Lakes in darkness, long before sunrise. The goodbyes had mostly been said the night before around the fire and during dinner. Over the course of a week, a group of strangers had somehow become something closer to a tribe. We had shared game drives, meals, stories, laughs, and enough animal sightings to fill several memory cards.
Soon everyone would be scattering in different directions. Some were heading to Cape Town. Others were continuing on to different parts of South Africa and beyond. Fortunately, not everyone was leaving our story just yet.
Mark and Diane, who had become good friends during our stay, were also heading to Victoria Falls. Knowing we’d continue sharing part of the journey made the departure feel a little less final.
While most of the lodge was still asleep, there were signs of life coming from the kitchen. Chef Pila and his team had prepared breakfast boxes for the road, making sure we wouldn’t leave hungry. It was one final reminder of the hospitality we had experienced throughout our stay.
As we climbed into the van with breakfast in hand and darkness still covering the bush, it felt less like checking out of a resort and more like saying goodbye to friends.
The roads hadn’t magically improved overnight, so we received one final African massage courtesy of the gravel roads before arriving at the airport.
The flight itself was surprisingly easy. Zimbabwe allows much of the visa process to be completed electronically, which made arrival fairly straightforward.
As we approached Victoria Falls, I happened to glance out the window. At first, I thought I was looking at a cloud. Then I realized the sky was mostly clear. The cloud wasn’t in the sky. It was rising from the ground.
Only later would I realize what I was seeing. Victoria Falls. Or more accurately, the spray created by one of the largest waterfalls on Earth.
Soon we would understand why the local people called it Mosi-oa-Tunya.
The Smoke That Thunders.
First Impressions of Insika Lodge
Transportation met us at the airport and brought us to Insika Lodge, our home for the next few days.
The lodge sits just outside Victoria Falls town itself. Transportation to most activities was included, which made the location convenient while still offering a quieter atmosphere away from the busiest tourist areas.
We later learned that Insika is an isiNdebele word meaning Pillar of Strength, a reference to the towering column of mist rising from Victoria Falls. Given what we would soon witness, the name seemed particularly appropriate.
One thing that impressed me before we even arrived was the communication. The staff here had also established a dedicated WhatsApp channel for guests, making it easy to coordinate transportation, activities, and questions throughout our stay.
Upon arrival, we were welcomed with tea.
Now I should probably confess something. I don’t like tea. At least I didn’t think I liked tea. To me, tea had always tasted like someone soaked leaves in hot water and expected me to be excited about it.
Still, one of my personal travel rules is to try new things whenever possible. So I accepted the cup. The tea had a reddish color and a naturally sweet flavor unlike anything I had tried before.
I took a cautious sip.
Then another. Then another. Before long, the cup was empty. Teresa looked surprised.
Honestly, so was I. Apparently, I don’t dislike tea. I had simply never met the right tea.
The lodge itself was comfortable and welcoming. There was a beautiful pool, an open-air restaurant, and a staff that consistently went out of their way to make guests feel at home.
It wasn’t trying to be an ultra-luxury safari lodge. And that’s perfectly fine. It was comfortable, convenient, and staffed by genuinely wonderful people. For our purposes, it was exactly what we needed.
Dinner Above the Falls
That evening, before we had actually seen Victoria Falls, we heard it. Insika had arranged dinner for us at Baines Restaurant along the Zambezi River. The setting was spectacular.
The river flowed quietly past the restaurant while, somewhere in the distance, a steady rumble echoed through the evening air.
We couldn’t see the Falls yet. But we could hear them. It was our first real introduction to the power waiting for us the next day.
The food was excellent. The cocktails were excellent. The service ranked up there with service we experienced throughout the trip.
Our server was a gentleman named Bheki. Now, if you’re American, your brain may have immediately substituted the name Becky. Mine did too.
Bheki was fantastic. He quickly learned that Teresa is vegetarian and walked us through the menu options. He made recommendations, answered questions, checked on us without hovering, and somehow managed to strike that perfect balance between professionalism and friendliness.
Bheki seemed determined to make sure we had a memorable evening. Small touches appeared throughout dinner, recommendations became more personalized, and what was already a wonderful experience became even better.
So if you ever find yourself at Baines Restaurant and Bheki is working, request his section.
And if he’s not? You’ll probably still have a fantastic meal.
As the sun slowly set over the Zambezi River and the distant roar of Victoria Falls continued in the background, it felt like the perfect beginning to our time in Zimbabwe.
Travel Friends
The next morning, we finally headed toward Victoria Falls.
Joining Teresa and me were Mark and Diane, along with another traveler staying at Insika Lodge, a young woman named Ella.
Ella was originally from New Zealand but was living and working in the Netherlands. Like us, she loved travel. As we walked started walking to the first viewpoints, we talked about places we had visited, places we hoped to visit, and the different ways people experience the world.
Ella often traveled solo, something both Teresa and I understood. There is a certain freedom that comes with traveling alone. You can linger where you want. Leave when you want. Change plans without negotiating with anyone. Of course, there are advantages to traveling with others as well.
Sometimes it’s for a few hours. Sometimes a few days. Occasionally much longer. Most continue on their separate journeys afterward, but for a brief period your paths cross and become part of each other’s story. Ella was one of those people. By the end of the morning, it felt less like we were touring with strangers and more like we were exploring with friends.
Then the sound grew louder. And louder. And louder.
Everyone’s attention shifted toward the same thing.
The reason we had all come.
The Thunder Awaits
We had heard the roar.
We had seen the mist rising above the horizon. We had shared meals overlooking the Zambezi, met new friends, and settled into our temporary home in Zimbabwe. But we still hadn’t truly seen Victoria Falls.
Not yet.
That would change very soon.
And when it did, we would finally discover whether The Smoke That Thunders lived up to its reputation.